Need Docs for XT RAM Board...

[Chris M]

--- William Donzelli <wdonzelli at gmail.com> wrote:

> > so if you presumably (probably? possibly?)
> eliminate
> > any heat getting to the ic's innards by the method
> I
> > described, you're likely doing no damage to it?
> 
> The better option is to heat the chip up reasonably
> slowly - when I
> strip a chip from a board (I use a solder pot), I
> will just warm the
> part in question up a bit. When the solder pot hits
> the pins, the
> internal structures of the chip will not get a big
> jolt. This is quite
> similar to how the big pick and place solder
> machines work on a
> factory floor.

 Well I'm not sure if that's better. Granted there
would be less of a shock, but wouldn't it be even
better to insure no heat gets to the chip at all?
 I may have borrowed this idea from the model train
dudes, but it's the basic heat sink principle. If
you're soldering details onto a brass boiler,
essentially a thin hollow tube, you run the danger of
desoldering previous-nearby work. So, between the part
you want to solder and the part you don't want
desoldered, encompass that area with a tissue or
whatever soaked in water.
 SO...if you surround the chip (and not necessarily
the whole board) with cool water, and possibly agitate
with a fish tank pump or something, it's pretty
unlikely any heat will get to the chip at all. And if
you fear that heat will be prevented from getting to
the component side of the pins/solder, I was thinking
that dribbling or brushing some wax? onto that side
the pins/board to give the area under it a chance to
heat up (by being insulated from the water). I know I
said that all pretty awkwardly but I'm on 4 hours
sleep here...
 Even Radio Shack used to sell these little aluminum
clips that presumably would get clamped onto a pin for
desoldering. That's what I seem to remember anyway.


 
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