substitute tube for DEC VR201?
ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
Mon Sep 15 16:03:28 CDT 2008
> On Saturday (09/13/2008 at 08:52PM +0100), Tony Duell wrote:
> > > I'm also toying with the idea of fitting an LCD into a VR201 cabinet
> > > and although it wouldn't be authentic, it would sure make the system
> > > more useable.
> > I am curious as to why an LCD in the VR201 cabinet is more useable than
> > the CRT. I can't see much difference in useability (but would much rather
> > have to repair a CRT_based monitor than an LCD-based one).
> Well, if I can't find a tube to replace it... then I'd consider an LCD.
Do you really have no old 12" monchrome portable TVs/monitors around? I
am sure you could find a CRT that would work.
> Repair of the unit after the LCD was swapped in would be by replacing
> the entire LCD subsystem. But-- I'm betting that if the LCD survives
Assuming you could get one.... I can see you having the same problem as
finding a replacement CRT now...
> the first few hours of life, it will then probably outlive me and it
> becomes the next guy's problem to repair it :-)
Well, in all my classic computers I've had one CRT fail. That was in a
Volker-Craig terminal and amazinging the weld between the cathode and its
base pin factured, so there was no cathode current (no, I don't mean
heater/filament here). I remember raiding a CRT from another old monitor,
popping it in and having no problems.
I've had 2 or 3 LCD panels fail, due to the ceals between the 2 class
plates failing and the liquid crystal itself leaking out. The panel turns
black from one corner/edge since without the LC material, the plane of
polarization of the light is no longer twisted, so the 2 external crossed
polarisers son't transmit much.
In terms of the driver circuitry, I don't think I've had an LCD driver
chip fail. Of course I've had CRT drivers fail, but normallly an
easy-to-get component, like a transistor, dies.
> I think what I really need to do is just come to terms with looking
> through the fog. The monitor works fine otherwise-- nice and bright
> and no burn-in so the whole issue is strictly cosmetic.
I've never tried to remove and re-bond a faceplate, but I've heard others
have mamanged it.
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