Re: OT: (but could be related) Jay Leno’s 3D Printer Makes Old Car Parts - NextEngine 3D scanner and Dimension 3D printer - P
ethan.dicks at gmail.com
Tue Jul 14 16:53:26 CDT 2009
On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 4:15 PM, Chuck Guzis<cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
> On 14 Jul 2009 at 16:06, Ethan Dicks wrote:
>> Oh, yeah. I've got a pile of broken ones in a box in storage (most of
>> the "good" ones are bolted to the face of various racks).
> Do you have a picture of these things? I'm used to racks that use
> cage nuts, screws and cup washers to attach panels. I don't think I
> can remember seeing any of your items.
I went grubbing around on Google and I checked through Bitsavers. I
couldn't find any catalog PDFs that might have H960 accessories, but
it _must_ be in a handbook somewhere. Everything was in a handbook.
Essentially, if you look at the black blank panel covers on a photo
like <http://www.digitalbits.org/data/media/pages/1170-1.jpg>, you can
see there are no visible mounting screwheads etc. The white frame is
a complex molded part with the black face glued to it. On the left
and right edges of the white frame are a series of hollow open-ended
cylinders, about 3/8" across, that line up with the holes in the 19"
H960 rack. A 10.5" panel has 8 holes, 4 on the left, 4 on the right.
What you are meant to do is to use 8 clip nuts to bolt 4 small black
plastic bits to the rack semi-permanently. Each plastic bit has 2
screwholes and two plastic studs with knobs on top. The plastic bit
is about 1/2" wide, and about 3-4" long. The studs are about 3/4"
long, with a shaft diameter about 1/4" and a knob on the end about
3/8" diameter (from memory). When you have new plastic brackets,
there are 8 studs that line up with 8 cylinders in the blank plate.
You press them on, and the friction between the knobs and the
cylinders holds the blank in place. What happens is when you remove
them repeatedly, they rarely come off cleanly, and the studs get
stressed, eventually leaving one or more knobs in the receiving
cylinders of the blank cover plate. The plate will stay on with as
few as two surviving studs, but 4 is better.
*Some* blank cover plates were meant to be screwed onto peripheral
devices with bolts through the black face of the plate, but most
commonly, even for, say, a BA-11 Unibus chassis (which frequently had
blanks attached to the face, but that stayed attached when the BA-11
was slid in and out of the rack), the blanks are friction-fit to what
they are covering up.
I took a couple other stabs at finding a good picture that's already
online but am coming up dry. Perhaps someone else has a link to a
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