ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
Tue Sep 21 14:42:43 CDT 2010
> > 1) You have ot dispmantle the meter to change the battery=2C and it's=20
> > assembeled with self-tapping screws going into the plastic case. I don't=
> > know how many insertions they will stand.
> Something I know that Tony doesn't.
There are many thingd you know and I don't, but this is not one of them ;-)
> I work with a lot of things that are wood and
> have screws that=2C if screwed in and out too many times=2C
> will end up with holes that don't hold the screws any more.
> Similar problem to the plastic and self tapping screws.
> I was shown a trick by an old wood worker years ago
> to keep from cutting new threads.
> You place the screw into the hole and while holding light
> pressure=2C rotate it backwards with the screw driver.
> At one point in rotation=2C it will kind of pop down. I don't
> know how else to describe this but it is a feel thing.
It's very distinctive when you know what to feel for...
I didn't mention it because I thought it was well-known and it's
something I do without thinking about it. In the same way that I always
tightne the screws evenly in a diagonal pattern (as one manual put it
'like torquing down the cylinder head on an engine) even when it's not
strictly necessary. Or the faxct that I know the diffeence between
Phillips and Pozidriv and use the right screwdriver.
> Then=2C screw the screw in. It will now follow the old threads.
> On the plastic with thread cutting screws=2C use very light
> touch and carefully screw in. It will bind if not aligned well.
> Of course=2C if the hole has already been abused many times=2C
> this doesn't work as well.
However, even with this trick, there is still some wear when you insert
and rtemve the screw. You'll get more insertion/revmoval cycles if you
avoid recutting the thread each time, but it may not be that many.
Personally, if I am going to spend the money and get a high-end
instrument, I would expect it to be made well..
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