Multimeter recomendations

[Tony Duell]

> > 1) You have ot dispmantle the meter to change the battery=2C and it's=20
> > assembeled with self-tapping screws going into the plastic case. I don't=
> =20
> > know how many insertions they will stand.
> >=20
> ---snip---
> =20
> Ahh
>  Something I know that Tony doesn't.

There are many thingd you know and I don't, but this is not one of them ;-)

> I work with a lot of things that are wood and
> have screws that=2C if screwed in and out too many times=2C
> will end up with holes that don't hold the screws any more.
>  Similar problem to the plastic and self tapping screws.
>  I was shown a trick by an old wood worker years ago
> to keep from cutting new threads.
>  You place the screw into the hole and while holding light
> pressure=2C rotate it backwards with the screw driver.
> At one point in rotation=2C it will kind of pop down. I don't
> know how else to describe this but it is a feel thing.

It's very distinctive when you know what to feel for...

I didn't mention it because I thought it was well-known and it's 
something I do without thinking about it. In the same way that I always 
tightne the screws evenly in a diagonal pattern (as one manual put it 
'like torquing down the cylinder head on an engine) even when it's not 
strictly necessary. Or the faxct that I know the diffeence between 
Phillips and Pozidriv and use the right screwdriver.

>  Then=2C screw the screw in. It will now follow the old threads.
>  On the plastic with thread cutting screws=2C use very light
> touch and carefully screw in. It will bind if not aligned well.
> Of course=2C if the hole has already been abused many times=2C
> this doesn't work as well.

However, even with this trick, there is still some wear when you insert 
and rtemve the screw. You'll get more insertion/revmoval cycles if you 
avoid recutting the thread each time, but it may not be that many. 

Personally, if I am going to spend the money and get a high-end 
instrument, I would expect it to be made well..

-tony