What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's guide?

Robert Jarratt robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com
Fri Nov 21 02:34:15 CST 2014


Yes, the hammer is actually a piece of metal, with a rubber "cup" over it, that often gets called the hammer. You can remove the rubber part and put some rigid-ish vinyl tubing over it, but as I have the newly made ones I have not done this.

I will send you the manuals separately.

Regards

Rob

> -----Original Message-----
> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of drlegendre .
> Sent: 21 November 2014 08:05
> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
> Subject: Re: What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's guide?
> 
> @Robert
> 
> If you - or anyone - have links to digital copies of the Mdl. 33 service /
> operator's manuals, please send those my way - would be very much
> appreciated!
> 
> I presume the rubber hammer isn't so much a /rubber hammer/ as a steel
> hammer with a bonded rubber face? Sort of like a pinch roller or drive wheel
> from a tape machine or turntable, and so on. Lacking the rubber facing, I could
> see how that would damage the 'typewheel' as you say, in short order.
> 
> Per your suggestion, the greenkeys list will be one of my next stops. Thank you
> for the help!! ;-)
> 
> On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 1:41 AM, Robert Jarratt <robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com
> > wrote:
> 
> > I suggest you subscribe to the Greenkeys list. I don't know too much
> > but a couple of things to know are:
> >
> > 1. The rubber hammer perishes. Do *not* operate the machine without
> > replacing it or you will cause irreversible damage to the typewheel.
> > There are two ways to do this. One is to use some PVC tubing, the
> > other is to ask on the Greenkeys list as someone has now manufactured
> > some completely new rubber hammers.
> > 2. Make sure you grease and lubricate it before turning it on. Turn it
> > over by hand first. The manuals are available to tell you where to
> > lubricate etc. I can supply copies if necessary.
> > 3. You will almost certainly need a current loop converter. I was
> > lucky to find one on eBay which works like a charm, I think there are
> > others. The alternative is to make your own. There are some designs
> > knocking around that don't seem too complicated.
> >
> > There are probably lots of other things, checking for excessive wear
> > for example.
> >
> > I love my Model 33, hearing that sound again is wonderful, it is
> > definitely something worth getting and looking after!
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Rob
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
> > drlegendre .
> > > Sent: 21 November 2014 06:53
> > > To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
> > > Subject: What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's
> > guide?
> > >
> > > I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to re-have a Teletype
> > model 33..
> > > I feel awful about what became of the junker I bought for $15 when I
> > > was
> > a 13
> > > year-old and wish I still had it today, so I could fix it and put it
> > > to
> > use.
> > >
> > > So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for,
> > > in
> > a Model
> > > 33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape reader?
> > >
> > > What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing,
> > > show- stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of
> > > these
> > units as a
> > > parts donor? What differences exist between the various ASR-model
> > > units,
> > as
> > > they progress through the years? What does one look for
> > > - and more importantly, what to avoid?
> > >
> > > And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model
> > > from a 'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or
> > > do you
> > need to
> > > go under the hood?
> >
> >



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