Who's rewired their house for this hobby?
holm at freibergnet.de
Sun Nov 23 15:26:40 CST 2014
tony duell wrote:
> > > What is the typical German wiring ? A 16A breaker for each outlet?
> > Typical is probably 10A. Same in Sweden, and Switzerland (which
> > admittedly is outside the EU).
> > You might have several outlets on the same 10A breaker. However, all the
> > wiring can take the full 10A, so there is no possibility of actually
> > draw more than the breaker allows, and no way to have more than 10A
> > flowing through the wires.
> OK. But equally if you have multiple outlets on a circuit (presumably often in
> the same room), you can't draw more than 10A total. Some of my classic
> computers would not like that!
Yes, but this is your problem than.
This wiring is to be meant for an average living room, not for an computer
room with big computers.
If you ant to do this, simply install 3 phase CEE Outlets.
> > But if your lamp is only designed for 1A, then yes, the house wiring can
> > still deliver 10A to it. How on earth the lamp would be able to draw
> > more than 1A though, would be a mystery.
> To be fair, most pvercurrent faults on small appliances result in an almost dead
> short across the mains. And a 10A or 16A breaker will then trip long before a 1A
> cable catches fire.
Thats eaxcatly how this is designed. The minimal Gauge for 230V wires is
> > The thing described, where a 16A outlet would actually be backed by a
> > 32A breaker would definitely be highly illegal in the countries I know
> > of. But that is pretty much limited to Scandinavia, Germany and Switzerland.
> At one time the UK regulations specifically allowed 3 off 5A (round pin, BS546)
> socket outlets on a single circuit protected by a 15A rewireable fuse. These plugs
> were unfused. There was also (and in accordance with the regulations) an adaptor
> to plug a 2A rated plug into a 15A outlet, again no fuses other than the 15A circuit
> fuse (radial circuit).
> Mind you the old wiring regulations, at least in the UK, make horrifying reading. At
> one time it was required to put a fuse in both the live and neutral wires (and if the
> latter failed the whole circuit was live). Now of course you put a fuse in the live only.
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