Soldapullt original vs III
dkelvey at hotmail.com
Mon Jan 16 20:33:37 CST 2017
It is interesting, I do take longer with the hand tools but I've never seen as much damage as with a desoldering type iron.
The tips are too small to hold a good tin and the suction cools the
joint too fast.
Doing it with regular irom and a pullit does take skill. One has to know
how to work the pin and the iron. One has to know when a pin is
desoldered by feel.
It was mentioned, to freshen the solder first and if there are problems,
refill the joint.
Patience is also required.
From: cctalk <cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org> on behalf of Jon Elson <elson at pico-systems.com>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 9:35:16 AM
To: General at classiccmp.org; Discussion@
Subject: Re: Soldapullt original vs III
On 01/16/2017 06:40 AM, Corey Cohen wrote:
> So I think I need to upgrade to a real Soldapullt instead of the RadioShack special.
> Is the slimline III model as good as the original bulky one? I don't mind the xtra pressure to push down the plunger on the original, I'm concerned with the effectiveness and ability to get in tight places my Hakko FR gun can't fit easily or when it's not worth changing tips for a single different component.
Well, these things work, but if you've ever used a real
desoldering station with vacuum pump (or venturi pump)
you'll realize how second-rate they are. I routinely
desolder things like 68-pin connectors with a Pace
desoldering tool. The long-acting suction with a pump makes
it work 10X better. The trick, as described in the Pace
manuals, is you heat the connection for several seconds,
then apply vacuum and orbit the tip so it moves the
component pin in the plated through hole. That orbiting
gets ALL the solder out of the hole.
It is amazingly better than the piston-type solder pullers.
There are also units that combine the heated tip with the
piston suction unit, and work better, as the joint is kept
hot while the solder is pulled out. This is kind of in
between the two other types.
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