naval jelly

SUPRDAVE at aol.com SUPRDAVE at aol.com
Tue Oct 3 13:35:42 CDT 2006


In a message dated 10/3/2006 11:48:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
spectre at floodgap.com writes:
> > In another group, some have suggested electrolysis methods. I've not tried
> > it but they talk about hanging the piece in a stainless tub and applying 
> > current to it. I don't recall what they suggested for elecrolyte but I
> > suspect it isn't critical. Most anything that doesn't plate out of
> > solution should work.

> The old tool collectors typically use a solution of washing soda (sodium
> carbonate) or lye (sodium hydroxide).  I've done it myself--just use a
> battery charger and a steel bucket, immerse the cruddy item in the hot
> solution and turn on the current.  For those old rust-encrusted items, it
> works really well right down to the otherwise unreachable crevices.

Stupid question -- what would be the anode and cathode in that case? I'm
sure this is an obvious thing but I don't have a lot of experience with this.

-- 
--------------------------------- personal: http://www.armory.com/~spectre/ 
---
  Cameron Kaiser 


I've used this electrolysis method myself and works great. I've got an 
article about it on my website. You don't want to use a metal container. A plastic 
trash can or storage tub works great. I use a scrap of stainless steel for the 
anode. The bigger the anode, the faster the reaction is. It's totally safe on 
the part you are derusting. It removes all paint too. I use crystal drain 
cleaner to make the solution. Use scrap wire to connect the battery charger to the 
anode/part because they will corrode quickly. Make sure to have good 
circulation too. Hydrogen gas is produced. When you take the part ouf, it will have a 
black residue on it. Be sure to scrub it ALL off otherwise if you paint the 
part, it may rust again. Better yet, use a pressure washer if possible. There 
should not be any black residue in the pores of the metal object. 



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