At 08:26 PM 9/12/97 -0800, you wrote:
> Thinking about it this is a cool topic for discussion, has anyone
>re-painted their computer cases and what tips/suggestions do you have
>for us or what should we avoid (also got any good color schemes?). (I
>have a few 64s lying around that would look neat with a custom paint
>job, since they are plastic, what do you suggest?
There was someone on the m100 mailing list who took his m100 apart and spray
painted the case. A neat idea (except he broke his screen while putting it
back together.) It's something I'd like to do one of these days, if I get a
spare 100.
--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-
Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn(a)crl.com that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/
Anyone know what these are? Best I can figure is they're maybe remote
terminal servers for IBM 3278's or something? Anyway, I've got two of them,
and I'm not sure I want to keep them. Anyone interested?
--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-
Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn(a)crl.com that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/
Hi,
I have a couple of systems given to me by an accountant friend. They
bear a
"Congruent" name plate, but the actual name on the S/N - Model # plate,
is
Unisys. At least one of them is a model CJ-5330-A12. While he was using
these, he was running an operating system called C-TIX which is
supposedly
strictly for accounting type applications, and, he claims, this is the
only OS that
will run on these. Anybody know any thing about these. This C-TIX looks
alot like
UNIX as far as OS commands... But... Any help anyone can give me on
this, is
more than greatly appreciated.
AdvaTHANKSnce!
Will
--
Sorry to have to resort to this, but, due to the myriad of automatic
e-mail advertising ("SPAMming") programs out there, I've been forced
to modify my "reply to" address. To reply to this message, you must
remove the .spamfree from the reply-to address. To those friends, and
folks
who are trying to contact me with info that I will likely be happy to
receive, I apologze for this inconvienence. To those out there, sending
all these annoying "junk mail" messages, I say "Oh well...."
Will
I would love to attend the festival but I have used up all my vacation for
the year. If can borrow from the next I will travel from MN to CA for it.
At 02:21 AM 9/15/97 -0700, you wrote:
>
>This request goes out to anyone who maintains a classic/antique/vintage
>computer web page.
>
>Could I get you to add a link from your page to the Vintage Computer
>Festival web page (URL below)? In return, I will list your page in the
>links section of the VCF web page.
>
>Please reply directly to me if you are interested in helping me out.
>
>
>Also, could I get a rough show of hands of those who are interested in
>attending the Vintage Computer Festival? I'm trying to get an idea of
>what the interest level is among fellow collectors for this type of
>show. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Also, your comments
>and suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
>
>
>
>Sam Alternate e-mail: dastar(a)siconic.com
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Computer Historian, Programmer, Musician, Philosopher, Athlete, Writer, Jackass
>
> Attend the First Annual Vintage Computer Festival
> See http://www.siconic.com/vcf for details!
>
>
>
As owner of a DEC PDP-11/23+ system, I know how difficult it can be to
find
hardware for older PDP-11's, as well as non-DEC computers and parts..
I'd like to inform you that I've found a terrific source in Utah for used
computer hardware including DEC related items. This person has a 2400
sq ft
warehouse (about 3 semi truck loads) quite literally brimming with
computer
hardware which has been collected and stored over the past 10 years. He
is
currently in the process of liquidating it at very, very low prices.
Tons
of miscellaneous computer equipment is available, much of which was
manufactured by DEC. It would be impossible to list even a fraction of
what
he has available, but he has told me that his inventory includes
approximately 1000 Q-Bus and Unibus boards, plus peripheral devices such
as disk and tape drives. I've not been to the warehouse in person yet,
but I will be visiting the site in about 2 weeks time from now.
If interested, you should be aware that he is in the process of getting
rid of EVERYTHING! It sounds like it will all be gone in the next 3 to
4 weeks.
Opportunities like this very seldom come along, so please contact me
via email if you are interested in finding out more. I'll be happy to
forward to you, any needed information that I can.
Please feel free to forward this notice to anyone you think might be
interested.
Best regards.
This request goes out to anyone who maintains a classic/antique/vintage
computer web page.
Could I get you to add a link from your page to the Vintage Computer
Festival web page (URL below)? In return, I will list your page in the
links section of the VCF web page.
Please reply directly to me if you are interested in helping me out.
Also, could I get a rough show of hands of those who are interested in
attending the Vintage Computer Festival? I'm trying to get an idea of
what the interest level is among fellow collectors for this type of
show. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Also, your comments
and suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
Sam Alternate e-mail: dastar(a)siconic.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Computer Historian, Programmer, Musician, Philosopher, Athlete, Writer, Jackass
Attend the First Annual Vintage Computer Festival
See http://www.siconic.com/vcf for details!
After many months of hard-procrastination I have finally put my PET
FAQ on-line. Those of you interested can check it out directly by going
to:
http://www.goldrush.com/~foxnhare/petfaq.html
or you can check out the FAQ as well as my other Commodor 8-bit www
pages by going to the url below.
Larry Anderson
--
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
Visit our web page at: http://www.goldrush.com/~foxnhare/
Call our BBS (Silicon Realms BBS 300-2400 baud) at: (209) 754-1363
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
what the heck is this? i hope i dont have to see spam on this list!
david
In a message dated 97-09-13 08:22:25 EDT, you write:
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>>
> > "Hammertone" finish has been popular on electronic equipment going back
> > to the 1910's, at least. (Earlier stuff often used a far more
> > extreme "wrinkle" finish.) Not only does it reduce glare off an
> > instrument's surface, but it also hides small manufacturing defects
> > a lot better, too :-)
>
> Wrinkle finishes seem to have mostly died out near 1960 or so. The only
> (production) computer I have seen in wrinkle finish is the outer case of a
> Packard Bell 250.
Yea but wrinkle still looks cool, it's just not as tough. Mostly 50's stuff.
Hammertone is easy to do also. It's available in spray or regular cans (which I
spray). The formula has been changed to meet newer standards but it looks good and
is easy to apply. I even matched the color on some 50's gumball machines I
restored a few years ago. They're on my web page.
> The textured finish found on more modern stuff (sometimes called a
> splatter finish, as the first coat is splattered on with a purposely
> crummy airbrush setup) can be restored quite easily, unlike wrinkle
> finishes. For small (or big, if you are patient) bare spots, all one must
> do is match the color of the paint at the paint shop, then manually apply
> the texture with a toothpick or swab. For larger jobs, you could try a
> badly done airbrush job. After the texture has dried, a smooth coat is
> then applied to cover the whole repair and blend the new and existing
> paint (an airbrush is a must for this job). The color will match, but most
> likely the new paint will be duller than the old paint. This may be
> acceptable to some, but if not, the new paint can be slowly buffed to the
> proper sheen.
We used to touch up that type of finish at work (way back in the 70's, yikes!). We
used a piece of sponge or foam rubber and dabbed it on. That can help blend it in
and minimize mismatch. Worked great. Toothpicks, etc work fine for smaller areas.
The trick is to match the color or it'll stand out like a sore thumb. The
glossiness can also affect the job. Buffing is hard to do because of the texture.
Maybe I'm getting too picky here but you get the idea. They do make splatter guns
and there are always the commercial coatings guys that can do it but that could be
expensive.
I'd say if you want it matched, take it down to the auto paint shop and have them
match the color. Ask if they can match the glossiness (??) and if they can't, buy
some additive and do it yourself. Probably easier to find something close and
spray the whole thing. The "crummy airbrush setup" might work but it'll take some
time. I find that learning the process and doing the job is the best part of the
whole thing.
Greg
http://www.calpoly.edu/~gmast/
