Hi,
I have an HP 75000 mainframe (photo attached) w/ the following modules
available for sale:
_ e1405a command module
_ e1679a sonet/sdh timing reference (shown in photo but has been sold)
_ e1671a sonet/sdh transport oh generator
_ e1693a atm generator 155/662
_ e1694a atm receiver 155/662
_ e1672a sonet/sdh transport oh receiver
_ e1662a sonet/sdh optical i/f 155/662 mb/s
_ e1663a sonet/sdh electrical interface
If interested, please feel free to make a "fair" offer. Unit is fully
operational and comes w/ 7 day return policy if faulty. thanx.
bill
On Nov 18, 21:03, vrs wrote:
> From: "John Allain" <allain(a)panix.com>
> > Haven't got time to comment on everything you've said.
> > Some tips:
> > Rails come in two pieces.
> > You can mount one piece to the drive and one to the rack.
> > When you have the rails in two pieces, the rack side rails
> > can be screwed in place with much less stuff in the way
> > than if the drive was there, so please do that.
>
> "Safety Rails" do not come apart like that. They are specifically
designed
> so the device *won't* go in or out through the front of the machine.
It
> will extend so the device can be serviced, but it won't let go so you
can
> take the device out and set it on a table.
All the rails I've ever seen have some way of separating equipment from
rail; usually catches that can be undone to allow the unit to come
right out the front. I've seen some rails where the catches were hard
to find, hard to get at, hard to figure out, but never one without any
catch or release mechanism at all. It wouldn't make sense: if the
equipment is so heavy and/or delicate that you couldn't risk it falling
out, you don't want to make it too hard to mount in the first place.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
In response to:
Trying to find an Overland Data, Inc. OD3201 (or similar model)
9-track reel-to-reel unit. It is a reasonably thin,
grey unit that stands vertically and has a plexiglas
window built in the door.
Please reply directly to ken at fraserhouse.com
including condition and price.
Thanks,
Ken Campbell
See: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2767146461&category=5109…
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
I have an HP1000E/2113B, s/n 2130A00623 sitting in my family room. I've
run it to see the lights blink but don't know anything else about it.
How would I check to see the ROM configuration? Configuration includes
12821A disc controller, BACI, HS terminal, BUS I/O and a bunch of I/O
cards, also 3 64K word memory cards. I don't have docs for this box but
I have what looks like a complete set of manuals for a truly embedded
system - an HP 5987A GC/MS (gas chromatography/mass spectrometer)
system. Manuals include the RTE-6/VM manual. I bought manuals and
cables; the CPU itself may still be available (I think asking price was
$300) if anyone is interested.
BTW, this thing is really too big for my collection - anyone want to
trade a MOS KIM or Exorciser system for it?
Jack Rubin
Wilmette, Illinois
USA
> I'll try to dump the microcode proms this weekend
Dumps of the firmware is now up at www.bitsavers.org/HP/1000_firmware
including the IOP firmware the 21MX.
Jay, since you appear to have the only surviving copy of the 2100 IOP
firmware, it would be good to get the proms read.
On Nov 17, 22:01, Ian Primus wrote:
> How do I get the side panel off the Digital rack? They seem to come
> off, and one is loose. I am wanting to remove it, and reattach it so
> that it won't rattle. Also, the top panels are a little crooked. I
have
> tried to look for how the thing is put together, but it's hard for
me
> to tell, being unfamiliar with racks. What is the trick to removing
> those panels?
There are two or three types. One has panels that pop on using springy
metal fasteners, one has sides that lift up slightly then pull off,
similar to (but not the same as) the taller racks.
> What are the preferred types of screws to use for mounting things in
> racks? One of my racks has threaded holes, but the Digital one
doesn't.
> Should I just go to the hardware store and get some 1/4-20 nuts and
> bolts, or is there a recommended or standard size? Also, what is the
> threading on racks with threaded holes? Is this a standard size bolt?
Normally, on those racks, you use clip-on Tinnerman nuts, with 10-32
screws. Some devices use a metal strip with tapped holes to take 10-32
screws. A Tinnerman nut is basically a folded piece of springy sheet
metal with a nut welded onto the back, so that it clips onto the
vertical rail and holds the nut captive and aligned with the hole in
the rail.
> Also, I have a Fujitsu Eagle, which, aside from being very heavy,
also
> needs a new set of rails. It has some rails already, but I don't have
> the mating ones to put in the rack. Do most devices take standard
> rails, or are there peculiarities to some drives? Will a normal set
of
> rails handle a 150 pound hard drive, or do I need something a bit
more
> robust?
Pity you haven't got the original rails, they're really high quality.
Eagle rails are heavier-duty than most, but any really HD rail will be
fine, providing the holes fit.
> Does it matter what order I put the hardware into the rack? I
wouldn't
> think that it would, but I'm worried about heat.
Within reason, it doesn't matter. I'd leave a gap above the Eagle. In
case you didn't already know, the rack is measured in "U" (units of
1_3/4"). 3U is 5_1/4". If you look closely you'll see the holes are
not evenly spaced, but in groups of three. The centres of the outer
holes of a 1U space are 5/8" distant from the centre of the middle hole
(and distance from centre of outer hole of one U to centre of outer
hole of the adjacent U is 1/2" ).
> On a related note, how should I plug all this stuff in? I'll have at
> least three power cords, one for the computer, one for the Eagle and
> one for the tape drive, then there will likely be another drive or
two.
> What should I plug these into? Will a heavy duty power strip handle
the
> load, or should I split it up? What about a single circuit? From what
I
> have read, an 11/73 shouldn't draw that much juice, the only thing I
> worry about is how much current the drives need. I'd still imagine
that
> a regular household 15 amp line should do it though.
15A should be plenty. I can't remember what an Eagle draws, but my
11/73 system draws less than 4A at 230V, but it has two smaler drives,
not an Eagle. The normal way to wire them up is with a power
controller in the bottom of the rack, at the back. A power controller
is basically a power strip with two sets of sockets (one always on, one
set controlled), a 2-pole (3-pole if for 3-phase) circuit breaker (not
just a switch), and a relay/contacter and associated electronics. A
3-position switch lets you turn the contactor to ON, OFF, or REMOTE,
and there are two or three 3-pin AMP Mate-N-Lock sockets for remote
connections (you can wire the BA11-x switches to turn the contactor on
and off).
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Lo and behold, when cleaning up a bit, I found an original Microsolutions
"uniform-pc" 5.25" floppy. Serial 01720511.
Someone asked about it lately, but I cant remember who it was.
Nico
On Nov 18, 22:18, Ian Primus wrote:
> The Fujitsu
> Eagle is another story entirely. I have looked at the rails some
more,
> and they do appear to be safety rails, and they are missing the rear
> right angle flange that would allow me to screw them into the rack.
> Also, even if I did have this flange I do not know how I am to get
this
> drive into the rack at all. I need to somehow lift the drive up far
> enough so I can screw the rails in place.
No, if they''re the normal Eagle rails, they *do* come apart. The
normal method is to separate the outer (main) assembly, fit it, with
the back bracket, to the rack, and get two people (or possibly the
industry-standard pile of books or wood) to lift the unit to the
correct height, while you guide first one side and then the other into
the fixed part of the rails. It's often easier to get the drive lined
up, close the front of the cab, then slide the rails onto the drive,
rather than wiggle a 200lb drive onto a moving (sliding!) target.
Are these rails made of what looks like brushed aluminium alloy, about
3" high? Slide the outer part back; it will stick out about half the
drive length. You should have an inner (actually, it's the middle)
layer of slide, with round-bottomed grooves on top and bottom edges
(where the ball-bearings run), probably still more-or-less aligned with
the front and back of the drive. This slides backwards (it's much
stiffer to slide than the outer section, and goes "click" as the safety
button engages in a round hole (abut 3/4" diameter) near the front of
this middle layer. At this piont, the amount of rail extending out
behind the drive is just a little more than the depth of the drive
itself. Press the button in, push back some more, and the whole
middle+outer of the slide will come off the drive.
> But, there I face another snag. The Digital rack I am installing this
> in is not threaded. Also, the spacing between the front and the back
is
> different than the other rack I have, and I noticed that some of the
> rails I had didn't fit as easily as they could have. Are there really
> different depths for racks?
Yes, there are. Some racks have the verticals closer to the front,
some (comms racks) have them set further back ( to allow for a door
closing over cables plugged in to patch panels. And there are shallow
racks, instrument racks, deep racks, ...
Add to that, different methods of ixing. As you look at the rack from
the front, you see a flange with the mounting holes in it (one on each
side of the rack, obviously). Some things are meant to fasten to the
front surfuce of this, some to the rear. Many types of rails fit to
the rear surface, otherwise they'd be too thick to get standard-width
equipment between the rails. The standard rails for things like an
RX02, a PDP/8E, modern Intel 2U servers, etc fit to the rear surfaces
for this reason.
> Another little snag I
> encountered with the Digital rack is that I _can't_ use the Tinnerman
> nuts that clip onto the rails. The problem is that in the Digital
rack,
> the rails screw in from the _back_ of the front part, instead of the
> front.
I think that's what I've just described, and you've obviously
discovered for yourself.
> I found a couple appropriate sized bolts
> with locking nuts that I was able to use, I'm going to get some more
at
> the hardware store tomorrow though.
Usually, the way is have a strip of steel, about 3/8" wide, and about
1/8" thick, with three of four tapped (threaded) holes in it, spaced to
suit the rack's mounting holes. If the front bracket (or flange) of
the rail has slots instead of holes (they usually do), you pick the
holes you need, put a couple of screws through the rack, and screw them
just a few turns into the metal strip. Do this front and back. Then
adjust the back bracket to about the right length, slip the rail's
flange between rack and metal strip, hold in place with one hand and
tighten up the screws (you want Philips head screws, not slotted :-))
with the other. Same at other end, then add more screws as required.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
I was forwarded this message yesterday.
If anyone is interested, I have the original senders email. Unfortunately
for most of us, he's in Macao. There's an attached jpg of the machine; it
looks like a console type machine with built-in printer and two 8" floppies.
>Subject: Historical Mitsubishi Computer with Antique Software
>Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 20:40:46 +0800
>Status: U
>
>??
>Dear Michael:
>
>I don't know whether or not you could help me to find any collector
>that would be interested of my offer, a historical Mitsubishi
>Mini-Business Computer, a landmark that symbolized computers
>migrating from Main Frame to Desktop. I herewith enclosed its
>original catalogs for your easy reference.
>
>Awaiting your soonest reply.
>
>Thanks and best regards,
>Monte
>
Ok, so I was at the Computer History Museum again today and got a chance
to check out the Unidisk in more detail.
First of all, it might be a very late model prototype as it requires a
kludgy external box for power.
Donated along with the drive was a box of Apple interfaces. There is
definitely an Apple /// Uni/Duo-disk controller. Therewas also a funky
Apple ][ riser card. There were also a couple extra analog boards. One
was a spare Unidisk analog board, and there were two Lolly Disk analog
boards. What's a Lolly disk?
Also donated were about 10 engineering drawings of the Unidisk, Duodisk,
as well as the Disk ][ controller, Disk ][ analog board, and some other
stuff.
Definitely an interesting piece of hardware.
Eric, ask the next time you are there and you should be able to get
someone's permission to check out the drive. It's in the accessioning
room, next in queue to be accessioned.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
