Hi all,
Anyone know if I can use a joystick on the Atari TT030? If so, what
type, which port does it use etc. (and does anyone have the relevant
port pinouts so I can wire up an adapter? I don't have an Atari-specific
joystick, but I do have ones from various other machines kicking around)
Given the ST compatibility, I assume it can be done...
cheers
Jules
I recently aquired an HP 9915A computer/calculator which is the industrial
version of the HP85.
Does anyone have the owner's manual for this.
If any one has the keyboard and would like to sell it or trade for it email
me.
Also anyone has any series 80 software they want to trade email me.
Thanks
RH
This is an area I'm working on in trying to bring some of these
systems back to life through simulation. MIT had a timeharing
PDP-1 system, as well as CTSS on a modified 7090 in the early
60's. BBN also had timesharing on a PDP-1. CTSS's replacement
was Multics. UC Berkeley modified an SDS 930 to add memory
protection and developed the GENIE timesharing system in the
mid 60's. SDS sold the 940, as the modified 930 was called
with modified versions of the GENIE software. The most well
known 940 systems were at SRI (which eventually was sold to
the folks who did the Community Memory Project), BBN, and
Tymshare. Tymshare migrated from their 940s to DEC10's in
the 70's. The people who did the 940 at UCB started Berkeley
Computer Corporation and produced one prototype of their
BCC500 system, which was moved to the University of Hawaii
after BCC folded, and many of the people formed the core of
the computer group at PARC. Dartmouth produced their BASIC
timesharing system in the mid 60's, about the same time as
GENIE. IBM produced TSS-360, the less said about that, the
better.. DEC timesharing monitors for the PDP-6 evolved into
the timesharing monitor on the PDP-10, which later became
TOPS-10. BBN's TENEX operating system for the PDP-10 later
became TOPS-20. Smallish timesharing systems were also produced
which included TSS/8 for the PDP-8, which was inspired by a
phd thesis Gordon Bell supervised at CMU, which sort of evolved
into RSTS (originally called EDUSYSTEM 100) and RSTS/E.
Hey I seen your exchange of emails with GM Phillips on these catalogs.
Do you have any of them for sell? I too am looking for them but I don't
have near the collection of George Phillips.
Lee
On Jul 16, 16:30, Fred N. van Kempen wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Jul 2004, Ed wrote:
> >
> > A bit hefty pricetag, but have a look at this auction.
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2397756436
> Ed, you're scaring me, and you know I'm not easily scared...
Me too -- Ed's going to be visiting here a couple of days after the
auction ends :-) Ed, you know that apartment is on your route to
here, only a couple of hours away?
Odd that it's a UK auction but priced in US$, though.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Guys,
In case you haven't heard, this weekend VCF/East will be held in
Boston for the 2nd year. If you live in the area and have the chance to
go, I recommend it!
http://vintage.org/2004/east/
Spare Time Gizmos will be there with our "Build your own PDP-8 from a
kit!" kit, the SBC6120
http://sbc6120.SpareTimeGizmos.com
and in honor of VCF/East we'll be giving free shipping to anybody,
anywhere in the world, who orders any SBC6120 parts or kits this
weekend. Just place your order thru our online store,
http://store.SpareTimeGizmos.com
anytime this weekend and pay via PayPal and you won't be charged for
shipping.
Bob Armstrong
Still getting rid of *small* stuff :) I can easily ship. This 1996 MVME
761-001 module is untested with condition unknown. $15.00 including USPS
Priority Mail w/ delivery confirmation shipping in the US. International
shipping will be higher.
On Jul 16, 9:46, Jules Richardson wrote:
> For something like that I'd probably cut a round hole in the plastic,
> but cut / file a hole with the right key into a strip of aluminium
and
> mount it directly behind the hole in the plastic. The plastic can be
> kept nice and neat that way, whilst it doesn't matter if the
aluminium
> hole looks a bit shabby.
The connector flange will hide any rough edges so that just makes twice
as much work.
> That or make a little recess in the underside of the plastic near to
the
> hole, and use a piece of u-shaped metal to stop the connector
rotating
One way I've seen is to drill a round hole, then file one "side" of it
out into a square. Then put a washer on the back of the BNC, but bent
over so that it fits the flat on the BNC and also fits the squared-out
part of the hole.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
