Today I stopped at Goodwill and found a new unopened copy of A,T&T's ver
3.51 system software and four manuals for the Unix PC for $4. This after
getting UnixPC a few months back that was password protected and I could
not get in to the hard drive. Now I will get from storage and hope these
diskettes are still readable after 11 years sealed in plastic.
On Tue, 17 Feb 1998 09:07:43 -0800 (PST), Tim Shoppa
<shoppa(a)alph02.triumf.ca> wrote:
> >>What sort of packs? What commands were you issuing to read them?
> >>What OS did you try to read them from? What error message did you get
> >>when it failed?
>
> >They're RK05 packs, inserted in the DK2: device. I booted from DK0: with
> >RT-11 v.4 and used "dir dk2:" to read the disk directory. Although I
> >don't remember the specific error, it's something like "invalid >
>directory."
> Yep. As you've just discovered, the RSTS/E directory structure is
>different than RT-11's.
>You can still read raw blocks from the disk, though. Try doing
>a DUMP/TERM/RAD50 DK2: and you'll see the directory blocks, followed
>by data blocks, scrolling by.
I'll give this a try.
>Have you tried booting either of the RSTS/E packs?
No, but I'll give this a try, too. It seems that the diagnostics pack that
I have is unreadable also (that one is not labeled with the required
system).
Thanks!
Rich Cini/WUGNET
<nospam_rcini(a)msn.com> (remove nospam_ to use)
ClubWin! Charter Member (6)
MCP Windows 95/Windows Networking
============================================
On Tue, 17 Feb 1998 12:53:07 +0100 (BST), Phil Beesley
<pb14(a)leicester.ac.uk> wrote:
>>You say that the drive came from a Mac SE. Did you low level format
>>or re-partition the disk on the IIGS before installing GS/OS?
>>I share a drive between a IIGS and a couple of Macs, so the drive
>>has a ProDos partition and a couple of HFS ones too. Often the IIGS
>>barfs on startup when it comes across the APPLE_DRIVER43 partition
>>map; I find that a Command-Control-Reset sorts this out and the IIGS
>>boots normally.
First, I know that this may sound silly, but where is the RESET key on the
GS? My system came with what looks to be a Mac ADB keyboard. Is the RESET
key the power key along the top, above the number keys?
Back to the drive. I initialized the drive from within the GS/OS Finder
(using the Disk | Initialize menu item). I did not specifically partition
the disk, though. If you use the Apple Disk utility (that's probably not the
exact name) that comes on the GS/OS disks, it shows no partitions, although
it identifies the drive as ProDos.
How exactly should I take to get this to work properly? I'm obviously
missing a step somewhere.
Rich Cini/WUGNET
<nospam_rcini(a)msn.com> (remove nospam_ to use)
ClubWin! Charter Member (6)
MCP Windows 95/Windows Networking
============================================
Um, I believe so (it's at the shop). I'll check.
> Manney,
>
> Is that Nec a MultiSpeed? I have an older model without the backlight
> and no hard drive.
>
> Joe
After some investigation via dejanews, I found that the thing uses
1.7 KW of electrcity. It weighs 1050 pounds. I subscribed to a mailing
list that deals with these things and ordered a catalog from
system3x.com
This was the extent of stuff I found. There was also info on starting
and logging into the machine, but I have a while to go until I can do
that. I emailed IBM for manuals.
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Just to see if it worked, I showed up at SSI and turned the RL02 on. I'd
planned to spin up the pack I have to see if the drive was good. There
was a terminator on the OUT port of the drive, and nothing on the IN. I
haven't attached it to either PDP yet (I will be this weekend!). I got an
error light. So I pulled the manual I have for it, and it's not a diag manual,
just a user manual. It says one reason is a loss of clock. Does that clock
come from the host computer, or should I be able to spin it up without a host?
-------
Please don't tell me that there' something on the side opposite the
floppy drive that I need access to! BTW, how would I take the thing
apart to get to the PSU? Note that the CE side is against a wall.
Do you know how much the thing weighs? Is there a way to move it after
it's probably made dents in the floor, short of pyrotechnic charges?
What do you suppose is the heaviest part of it, after PSU and case?
>[Removing PSU for testing]
>That may not be possible. A Sys/34 PSU takes about 1/4 of the
machine's size -
>It's about 1/2 of the front section of the CPU box.
>There's additional parts to it in the rear section. Oh, and there's a
small
>red switch toward the top center of the non-CE panel side of the
machine, see
>that? It *HAS* to be on to power the machine up. It'll say "power
check"
>on the frontpanel if you don't. Oh, another thing: See the big LOAD
button
>on the frontpanel next to the FDD? You think that's to LOAD a floppy,
right?
>WRONG, read LOAD as RESET... (I found this out the WRONG way...)
>you push it to reload the O/S.
>-------
>
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I have a Micropolis Disk Storage Module Model No. 1023-II that I got 10 years ago with an Altair. I would like to get it running again. It is a 5.25-inch drive that looks very similiar to the ones used in early Vector Graphic S-100 systems. Does anyone have a manual or information about this drive?
Tom
At 02:27 AM 2/15/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Which reminds me: why didn't IEEE-488 ever become a big hit in the
>computer biz? It's been around since the 60's, is standard, has good
It's used by:
Commodore Pets
GRiD Compass
HP 3000
HP 1000 (I think)
Probably others...
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roger(a)sinasohn.com that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California http://www.sinasohn.com/
> For one thing, what is the CE Panel? The thing is in a corner, with
> the end that has the floppy drive on it visible, as well as the side
Someone else has already given a far better reply than I could.
> that has a small power switch on it. I went down to Radio Shack, they
> only had 220-110 transformers that could handle up to 40 Watts. I have
> a hint this might not be enoug ;) Also, they had 110-220 transformers.
> Could I just wire one of those backwards and get the same result?
Possible but not a good performer. Step-down transformers are usually
wound for around 220-120V and allow for 10V or so of voltage drop.
You'd be lucky to get more than 200V out on any sort of load.
Also, 40VA is about 100 times too small :-( Try industrial equipment
suppliers - 1kVA, 3kVA, even 5kVA transformers should be obtainable.
And the bigger it is the less it'll suffer from voltage drop.
> Wouldn't it be easier to just wire two 110 volt plugs together like
> I was told I could try if I like "but I would far better notter"?
> IS this indeed like trying to move heat from a cold to a hot object?
Yes, insofar as it can be done, but don't just connect it up and expect
it to happen. And if you get it wrong you'll probably melt the cold
object, um, I mean wiring, not to mention causing a big flash and bang
and/or your death. The two sockets to which you'd have to connect are
almost certain not to be in the same room. If you really want to go
down this route, here are some things to think about:
First, use 3 pin plugs wherever possible - reversing the polarity of a
2 pin plug at any point during the following procedure could quite
literally be fatal.
One pin of every 110V socket in the house is a "neutral" pin - at
ground potential but not part of the ground connection. The other pin
of each socket is "live" at 110V to ground.
In each socket, identify the neutral pin if you can (a voltmeter
between power pin and ground _should_ do it - if you get 0V or
something silly like 40V on each side, you haven't found ground)
To evaluate a pair of sockets connect the voltmeter between the live
pin of one and the live pin of the other. You should get either 0V or
220V (+/- about 20V in each case). If you get 220V you _may_ be onto a
winner.
The final barrier is protection. Earth leakage protection (GFCI I
think it's called in the US) is almost universal. If the two circuits
are on the same GFCI relay, you're OK. If they are not, you're not.
The test is, connect an ordinary table lamp (or similar) between live
on one socket and neutral on the other. (Check with voltmeter first -
it should give 110V.) If the GFCI trips, you can't get 220V by this
method.
If the GFCI remains stable, you wire up a junction box that takes live
>from each socket plus ground from somewhere safe and feeds a 220V
socket.
Now, are you still thinking of using that method? If so, you shouldn't
be!
Seriously, I'd recommend extracting the PSU from the machine and opening
it up. You never know, it may be easily modifiable to 110V operation.
Alternatively, you may be able to substitute one or more 110V PSUs to
power the LV outputs in the same manner.
Finally, if the machine hasn't been powered up for a few years, you
should definitely remove the PSU, power it up with no more than light
bulbs on the outputs, and measure voltages.
Philip.